Hardwood

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Hardwood

Engineered

Hardwood Flooring: A Smart Classic Choice

Wood floors are a classic addition to any home. The natural characteristics of wood add depth and a visual appearance that many other types of floors try to duplicate. Rich, inviting hardwood floors can add long term value to your home.

Species

Species refers to the type of hardwood – oak, maple, cherry, hickory, etc. Species can be either domestic – grown in the U.S., or exotic – grown elsewhere in the world, typically in tropic or sub-tropic areas.

 Each species has its own natural visual characteristics in three areas:

  • Color – naturally occurring or applied with stain
  • Grain – refers to the lines visible on a cut board
  • Texture – naturally occurring or added during manufacturing

Solid vs. Engineered

Solid hardwood is milled from a single piece of wood, which can be repeatedly sanded making it last for decades.  As a natural material, solid hardwood is susceptible to temperature and humidity changes and cannot be installed below grade or in damp spaces. It must be nailed or stapled to a wooden subfloor.

Engineered hardwood is created by bonding a thin layer of hardwood to a core of plywood or finger joints. These layers can withstand a wider range of humidity than solid hardwood. With the greater stability of construction, engineered hardwoods can have wider widths than solid hardwood – available widths now exceed 7.5” wide. Installation can include powder rooms and in basements. It can be stapled, glued or it can “float” (affixed to itself rather than the subfloor).

Durability/Hardness – Janka scale

Each species used in hardwood flooring has a unique hardness rating, which indicates its natural resistance to normal wear and tear in a home. A species receives a hardness rating based on its resistance to indentation in a hardness test. The higher the rating, the higher the durability of the hardwood. Brazilian walnut has one of the highest ratings at 3684, while yellow pine has one of the lowest at 690. Oak is the benchmark standard for hardness at 1360.

Humidity

If hardwood gains or loses too much moisture, problems can occur. Wood that gains too much moisture can cup. Cupping occurs across the width of a floor board, with edges that are raised on each board and centers that are lower than the edges – similar to seeing waves.

Wood that loses too much moisture can gap. Gapping occurs between floor boards. Gaps can vary in size and are considered normal if they appear and disappear during seasonal changes in humidity. Gaps are not considered normal if they are larger than the width of a quarter or do not close during more humid months.

Both of these issues can be minimized by maintaining an environment that is consistently between 60-80ºF, and 30-50% humidity. Significant fluctuations outside these ranges can result in cupping or gaps. However, consult the manufacturer’s recommendations for your specific product.

Installation

Nail-down – attached with staples or cleats

Glue-down – attached with adhesive

Floating (Engineered wood only) – floor boards are not attached to the subfloor, but attached to each other – usually by tongue and groove.

Finishes

There are varying finishes that can be applied to your hardwood floor to create the look you want to achieve in your home. Semi-gloss, cashmere, or ultra-matte finishes can have different looks based on the textures that are applied to the wood: brushed, hand scraped, oiled or smooth. Generally, flatter finishes, like cashmere and ultra-matte, absorb light and help to hide dirt and scratches. Brighter finishes, like semi-gloss, reflect light and give flooring a luxurious shin

Maintenance

  • Sweep or vacuum regularly since built-up grit can damage the surface of the wood. The vacuum head must be a brush or felt type. Be certain the wheels of the vacuum are clean and do not damage the finish. Do not use a vacuum with a beater bar head.
  • Remove spills promptly using a clean, dry Microfiber cloth and clean residue with a professional hard surface cleaner.
  • Never clean your floor with a sopping wet-mop; the excess water will cause damage to your floor. Never clean your floor with a steam mop; the extreme heat and moisture will cause damage to your floor.
  • Use protective mats at all exterior entrances to reduce debris that can be tracked in from outside. Do not use rubber or foam backed mats as they may discolor the finish.
  • Never use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax or other household cleaners that contain citrus oils, lemon oil, silicon or ammonia to clean your floor. Mixtures of water and vinegar are also NOT recommended, since vinegar has an oxidizing effect on urethane over time. We recommend using Bona® Swedish Formula® Hardwood Floor Cleaner.
  • Keep pets’ nails trimmed, paws clean and free of dirt, gravel, grease, oil and stains.
  • Place protective felt pads under furniture legs and feet to reduce scratches and dents. Replace pads as needed.
  • Lift items or use a dolly for moving furniture or appliances – do not slide or drag heavy items, this will cause scratching.
  • Avoid wearing high-heeled or spiked shoes that can mark the surface. These types of heels can indent or damage the floor.

Radiant Heat:

  • Always refer to the manufacturer’s specifications if your flooring is able to be installed over heated floors. Some hardwoods and laminates are able to be installed, whereas other hardwoods and laminates are not.
  • If your hardwood/laminate floor is suitable to be laid over a subfloor with a radiant heating system, do not raise or lower the temperature by more than 5°F per day and never exceed a surface temperature of 80°F. While floor-heating temperatures do not harm the wood, it does affect its moisture content.

Moisture and Hardwood Floors:

Hardwood is a natural product which reacts to changes in relative humidity. Although Laminate is man-made it reacts similar to hardwood. The more constant the moisture content is maintained, the less likely there will be any problems with the floor. Maintain a humidity level as recommended by the manufacturer, usually between 40-60%.

 In winter time

When homes are heated and the air is dry, wood flooring looses some of its moisture content and contracts as a result. When this happens, gaps and checking (cracks) can appear between the planks. This is normal and the homeowner should be prepared for it to occur. Once indoor heating is turned off in the spring and humidity levels rise again, most gaps will close up. To avoid these separations, try to control and monitor air humidity levels during the dry season by installing a humidifier in the furnace and/or bringing a movable humidifier into the room that has good air circulation. As long as the humidity level does not fall lower than recommended, minimal gaps will appear between the planks.

In summer time

During warm and humid summers when indoor humidity can rise up to 90%, wood absorbs moisture from the air and expands as a result. Even just a few days of exposure to high humidity can cause wood flooring to cup, warp or squeak. Cupping can also happen when spilled water is absorbed by the wood. Once cupping has occurred, it takes a while for the wood to restore its internal moisture content and flatten out.
When extensive moisture or humidity causes the wood to expand, adjoining boards start pressing against each other.

To avoid cupping, try to control and monitor air humidity levels by installing a de-humidifier – which may need to be emptied several times a day depending on humidity levels.

IT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED THAT HOME OWNERS INVEST IN A HUMIDIFIER AND/OR DEHUMIDIFIER as well as a humidity tester to ensure proper maintenance of their flooring.